|Common Name:||Mexican Red-legged Tarantula|
|Year of Discovery:||1856|
|Tarantula World:||New World
|Their Natural Habitat:||This species can be found in Durango State, Mexico. Opportunistic burrowing species. Scrubland and grassland, burrowing under rocks and in abandoned rodent burrows.|
|Temperament:||This species is considered to be docile though I have found my docile girl to be quite flicky. I have also found urticating hairs of Brachypelma emilia to be more irritating that other Brachypelma. Please keep in mind that though species have their stereotype temperament, individual tarantulas can exhibit temperaments that vary significantly from the norm.|
|Growth/Size:||Classified as slow growth rate. 6.5 inch diagonal leg span.|
|Can be handled, but always use caution. It is recommended to sit close to the floor when handling any species. If your Tarantula falls to the ground it can be fatal, their exoskeleton is very fragile. Becareful! My girl will readily flick on initial contact as I seek to take her out of her cage, but usually calms down immediately. I have never seen my girl throw a thread pose.|
|Temperature:||60°- 85°F. I keep mine between 80° and 85°F|
|Humidity:||50– 70%.These are a scrubland species so they do well with lower humidity, but they do appreciated moist hides or burrows once in a while. I moisten my girl's substrate around her water dish and in her hide/burrow periodically.|
|Any enclosure from 5-10 gallon will work. Provide a hiding spot, a flowerpot or wood bark can be used. Be creative, there are lots of different ways to make a hide for a Tarantula. Artificial plants are optional. When keeping this species in a larger enclosure make sure to add enough substrate to prevent any injuries from a potential fall. The rule of thumb for terrestrial tarantulas and climbing to allow them no more than 1 ˝ their diagonal leg span in height. This species will to dig burrows, and mine will expand her hide with some burrowing down to the other end of her enclosure and around the corner, so a nice layer of about 4 + inches will allow for plenty burrowing room. Mine has a cork-bark half-round that she does use some, but mostly loves to sit on top of or burrow from underneath.|
|Eco Earth or Peat Moss, you may make a mix of Peat Moss (50/50). Avoid any Evergreen woods (Cypress, Reptile Bark) inside of the enclosure. Evergreen contain natural insecticidal oils that can harm your Tarantula if exposed long enough. Also keep in mind that this species likes bone dry substrate.|
|Diet:||Crickets, meal worms, wax worms, super worms Blaptica dubia or Blatta lateralis roaches. Please do not offer wild caught prey, as it may contain pesticides (and potential parasites) which can harm or kill your Tarantula. Also never feed your tarantula “kingworms” (giant mealworms) as these are mealworms that have been fed juvenile growth hormones to prevent them from maturing so they grow bigger. JGH are a common insecticide and would not be good for your invertebrate tarantula! (I received this from a personal conversation with a cricket/worm breeder near me). Furthermore, mice and other invertebrates contain too much calcium for tarantulas and should not be fed to them. Crickets and roaches are the optimum feeders for nutrition, while all others (mealworms, superworms, etc.) should be fed as treats, not as staples.|
|Make sure to offer a water bowl, the size should be half the size of the spider. Do not use any sponges, cotton balls or paper towel or water crystals inside of water bowl, just clean water. Small rocks may beadded. Clean the water bowl once a week or when you feel it is necessary. Crickets or roaches may end up dead in the water, in which case you should clean it right away. Spiderlings are too small to have a water bowl, misting one side of the enclosure wall 1-2 times aweek, should be plenty enough. Your tarantula will often fill the dish with substrate, or even poop in it, but continue to provide clean water. Also periodically moisten the substrate on one side ofthe enclosure, allowing that to dry out completely to prevent mold growth.|
|Longevity:||One of the longest lived tarantulas. Females can live up to 30 years, while males may live 5 years.|
|Maturity female:||3-6 years depending on how often they are fed and how warm their enclosure is kept.|
|Maturity male/ Tibial Apophysis:||3-4 years, which is only an estimate. / Yes, on first set of leg.|
|Communal Setup:||Not recommended for this species.|
|The Brachypelma emilia tarantula is a stocky tarantula, with velvety black on the legs, abdomen and underside, and bright orange-red “leg-warmers” and bright orange-red highlight hairs on the abdomen. The carapace is a pale orange-red with black triangle “mask” from the foveal groove (the pit in the mid-rear of the carapace) to the chelicerae in adult coloration. This is a striking and beautiful tarantula. Colors are most vivid immediately after a molt.|
|B. emilia is a striking tarantula because of the deep black base color, orange leg bands and black "mask". A must for any collection. Make sure never to keep a Tarantula enclosure directly in the sun. No light is necessary for your Tarantulas habitat. Natural lighting is perfectly fine.
For more information on this gorgeous species, check out the fan club page at http://www.tarantulasus.com/showthre...milia-Fan-Club
|CITES List and IUCN Red list of Threatened Species||B. emilia was first listed on Appendix II of CITES in 02/16/1995.
This species is currently not on the IUCN Rest List.
This species is illegal to import without proper paperwork, unless proof that they are captive-bred can be provided.
|Disclaimer from TarantulasUS.com||Handling venomous animals is not advised or endorsed by this forum. In certain cases of envenomation, hospitalization has been required. Some species may have very potent venom and special caution should be taken.|
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