| Subfamily: | Theraphosinae |
| Genus: | Pterinopelma |
| Species: | sazimai |
| Common Name: | Brazilian Blue or Sazimai's Tarantula |
| Explorer: | Pocock |
| Year of Discovery: | 1901, (Revalidated2011) |
| Country: | Brazil |
| Tarantula World: | New World |
Their Natural Habitat: |
This species is from ecological islands in the highlands of Eastern Brazil, near the Chapada Diamantina National Park, Bahia, from 900m (~3000ft) to 1300m (~4300ft) elevation (from sea level). This area is classified as "subtropical savannah", where ambient humidity is around 70-80%. Temperatures in this region range from 24-28°C (75-82°F). Rainfall in the regions is reported to be significant, with reports that they plug their burrow entrances to avoid flooding of their shelter. However, others note that their burrows are found underneath rocks, which may be the “plug” referenced above. |
Temperament: |
While reports are that these are skittish, mine has calmed down, even at 3.5” and is not so prone to running. Nor does she ever flick hairs now. But I interact with my tarantulas more than the usual hobbiest. |
Growth/Size: |
Moderate to fast growth. In temperatures on the warm side of their native climate, my sling has grown from 1” to 3.5” in a year. Max leg span is ~6" for a full grown female. |
Experience Level: |
Moderate. Maintenance of humidity, cooler temperatures than most tarantulas, and their skittish temperament place them above the beginner level. |
Handling |
These are particularly skittish, and may be prone to running. They can be fast. That said, mine has calmed down with handling even at 3.5” and doesn't even flick. Please note that nothing is known of the toxicity of their venom, so any handling should be done with much caution, for the tarantula's and handler's safety. |
Temperature: |
75-82°F. Hobby literature indicates they need cooler temperatures than the typical Brazilian tarantulas, and warmer temperatures will slowly deteriorate their vitality over time. That said, Mine spends as much time on the warm side of her enclosure as she does on the cooler side. |
Humidity: |
70-80%. While some reports of their habitat indicate they keep a lid on their burrows to keep the heavy rains of the region from flooding their burrows, keepers note that given the choice between dry and wet substrate, they stay on the dry side. Keep a part of the enclosure's substrate moist, but not swampy. From my research, the “lid” reported for their burrows are likely rocks under which they dig their burrow. These are obligate burrowers and enjoy digging deep burrows, so give them plenty of substrate. |
Enclosure: |
As these are obligate and avid burrowers, provide plenty of substrate for the burrows. Some reports are that they will also exhibit arboreal tendencies, silking leaves and other material together above ground. These are noted as nocturnal tarantulas, and mine will often be found exploring her enclosure, even walking the walls, however, holotype specimens (female) collected for the scientific papers were collected crossing a road at 4pm in the afternoon. Fairly active. |
Substrate: |
Eco Earth or Peat Moss, you may make a mix of Vermiculite and Peat Moss (75/25), though from my experience, Peat Moss does cultivate molds very easily. Avoid any Evergreen woods (Cypress, Reptile Bark) inside of the enclosure. Evergreens contain natural insecticidal oils that can harm your Tarantula if exposed long enough. |
Diet: |
Crickets, meal worms, wax worms, superworms, Blaptica dubia or Blatta lateralis roaches. Please do not offer wild caught prey, as it may contain pesticides (and potential parasites) which can harm or kill your Tarantula. Also never feed your tarantula “kingworms” (giant mealworms) as these are mealworms that have been fed juvenile growth hormones to prevent them from maturing so they grow bigger. JGH are a common insecticide and would not be good for your invertebrate tarantula! (I received this from a personal conversation with a cricket/worm breeder near me). |
Water: |
Make sure to offer a water bowl, the size should be half the size of the spider. Do not use any sponges, cotton balls or paper towel (as these are breeding grounds for bacteria) or water crystals inside of water bowl -- just clean water. Small rocks may be added. Clean the water bowl once a week or when you feel it is necessary. Crickets or roaches may end up dead in the water, in which case you should clean it right away. Spiderlings are too small to have a water bowl, misting one side of the enclosure wall 1-2 times aweek, should be plenty enough. Your tarantula will often fill the dish with substrate, or even poop in it, but continue to provide clean water. Also periodically moisten the substrate on one side of the enclosure, allowing that to dry out completely to prevent mold growth. |
Longevity: |
Discovered in 1901, the Pterinopelma sazimai was “rediscovered” in 2011, and subsequently introduced into the hobby. I have found no informationon their longevity. Though discovered in 1901, very little is known of this species. |
Maturity female: |
I do not know from experience, but suspect it is about 3 years based on the 2 years to maturity of my male. |
Maturity male/ Tibial Apophysis: |
Time to maturity is around 2 years. I acquired my male as a 1” sling in August of 2014, and he matured in August of 2016. My tarantulas are well fed and tend to grow quicker than most. I would suspect the typical time to maturity to be about 3 years. 1.5-2.5 years. / Yes, on first set of leg. |
Communal Setup: |
Not recommended for this species. Little is known of this species, but they do not appear to be communal. |
Color Markings: |
Females are a deep navy to indigo blue over all the body, with bright red highlight setae on their abdomen. Truly a stunning species. They are reminiscent of Greenbottle Blues (Chromatopelma cyanopubescens) but are much deeper, darker blue all over (including their abdomen) and have red highlight setae on their abdomen rather than orange. The males look like females until they mature, at which point, they take on more green tones. the head is a more metallic green than a Greenbottle blue, and the femurs have some greens mixed in with the blues. The legs are not as intense deep blue as the females, but are still blue. And the rump is red instead of the bright orange of a Greenbottle blue. Still a striking animal. |
Special Note: |
These gorgeous tarantulas are considered related to the Lasiodoras, but do not possess stridulating hairs, and do not attain to the size of Lasiodoras. They are a beautiful addition to a collection, and indications are that they are not so difficult to breed as their typical selling price has dropped 75% to that of a typical G. pulchra. Expect to see more of these in the hobby in coming years.For more information on this stunning and new species, check out the fan club page here: http://www.tarantulasus.com/showthre...zimai-Fan-Club |
CITES List |
These do not appear to be on the CITES or CITES II lists, though the isolated nature of their habitat and populations warrants protection. Thankfully, successful breeding programs in the hobby may preclude the need for collecting in the wild. |
Disclaimer from TarantulaUS.com |
Handling tarantulas with potent venom is not advised or endorsed by this forum. In certain cases of envenomation, hospitalization has been required. Please use caution when dealing with these species. |
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