• Dolichothele diamantinensis Care Sheet

      Subfamily: Theraphosinae
      Genus: Dilochothele
      Species: diamantinenesis
      Common Name: Brazilian Dwarf Blue Beauty
      Explorer: Bertani, Santos, & Righi
      Year of Discovery: 2009
      Country: Brazil
      Tarantula World: New World

      Their Natural Habitat:
      Discovered in the city of Diamantina, state of Mina Gerais, Brazil (Southeastern Brazil in the region of Sao Palo), this species is of tropical, but not rainforest origins. Its natural habitat is above 2900 feet elevation among rocky outcrops with little soil depth. The holotypes for this species were collected from rocky crevices or under stones at about 4,100 feet where they built silky tunnels.
      Please note that individuals can vary in temperament widely. This species is considered docile, but shy, flighty and fast. I have read reports of individuals that have attitude as well as ones that are very docile. Their flighty-ness and speed seem to be their dominant temperament trait. Much like Greenbottle Blue, these also are heavy webbers.
      Growth rate is quite fast with individuals maturing in 6 to 9 months! Adult females grow to 3 inches. Males are much smaller.
      Experience Level:
      These are an intermediate level tarantula as they are shy, skittish, and fast. Otherwise, their care is apparently fairly straight forward and easy.
      While these are tropical spiders, they do well room temperatures. 76-82oF during the day, 68-72oF at night.
      I read above 50% humidity for their care. Their natural habitat has a range of humidity from 72% to 90%, so more humid than Greenbottle Blue in their care.
      As a smaller terrestrial species (dwarfs), these do well with smaller space. 2.5 to 5-gallon tanks should be adequate. A fall from even a short distance could be fatal, so keep the distance from the top of the enclosure to the substrate no more than 1.5 times the diagonal leg span of the spider. It is preferable to have these with more substrate than vertical space so they can burrow, and to prevent them from climbing and falling from heights in their tank.
      EcoEarth (coconut husk). You may make a mix of Vermiculite and Eco Earth (75/25). From my experience, peat moss does cultivate molds very easily, and thus would not be recommended for this species. Avoid any evergreen woods (Cypress, Reptile Bark) inside of the enclosure. Evergreen woods contain natural insecticidal oils that can harm your tarantula if exposed long enough. Molds can also be inhibited by allowing the substrate to dry out completely (just keep the water dish filled).

      Crickets, meal worms, wax worms, superworms, Blaptica dubia or Blatta lateralis roaches. Please do not offer wild caught prey, as it may contain pesticides (and potential parasites) which can harm or kill your tarantula. Also never feed your tarantula “kingworms” (giant mealworms) as these are mealworms that have been fed juvenile growth hormones to prevent them from maturing so they grow bigger. JGH are a common insecticide and would not be good for your invertebrate tarantula! (I received this from a personal conversation with a cricket/worm breeder near me). These are aggressive feeders, taking down prey as large as themselves.
      Make sure to offer a water bowl, the size should be half the size of the species. Do not use any sponges, cotton balls or paper towel (as these are breeding grounds for bacteria) or water crystals inside of water bowl, just clean water. Small rocks may be added. If possible, mount the bowl higher in the tank rather than sitting it on the floor. Clean the water bowl once a week or when you feel it is necessary. Crickets or roaches may end up dead in the water, in which case you should clean it right away. Spiderlings are too small to have a water bowl, misting one side of the enclosure wall 1-2 times a week, should be plenty enough. Your tarantula may often fill the dish with substrate, or even poop in it, but continue to provide clean water. Also I periodically wet the substrate, allowing that to dry out completely to prevent mold growth.
      Maturity/ Longevity female:
      Females may take 6 months to a year to mature, and live for up to 15 years. Increasing factors such as temperature and feeding schedule can speed up these times.
      Maturity male/ Tibial Apophysis:
      Yes, males may take 6 months to mature and live less than a year after maturing. Increasing factors such as temperature and feeding schedule can speed up these times.
      Communal Setup:
      These are not considered communal. Do not attempt to house these together unless breeding a male and female, and then, keep a close eye on them as she may cannibalize him in the mating process.
      Color Markings:
      Often described as a dwarf Greenbottle Blue, this gem is shinier and brighter than a GBB, with lighter blue legs and hairier, lighter green carapace. They have less red/orange on their abdomens than GBBs, but that is more a pinkish read. Under those red highlight hairs is a slick blue base. Truly a dazzling gem!
      Special Note:
      Formerly Oligoxystre diamentineses, this is a new species to the hobby, having been in the hobby since around 2012. Having been described in 2009, it is difficult to find much established information on them. One paper online (http://www.icmbio.gov.br/parnaitatia...catti_2015.pdf), notes that this genus lacks urticating setae.

      More can be read about this amazing species on our fan club page: http://www.tarantulasus.com/showthread.php/9960-Dolichothele-diamantinensis-Fan-Club
      CITES List
      These do not appear to be on the CITES or CITES II lists. Thankfully, successful breeding programs in the hobby may preclude the need for collecting in the wild.
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      Handling tarantulas with potent venom is not advised or endorsed by this forum. In certain cases of envenomation, hospitalization has been required. Please use caution when dealing with these species.
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